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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.